Day Four - Moir Hut to Third Caves Camp

Getting up today was really hard. I was dizzy, nausious, sore, tired.  My head hurt, the tent was spinning - and it was bloomin cold!!

And then......this was the view.  You may look at the picture and see the toilet tent.  You may see a bit of a rock.  If you look closely you will see little red things.  Tiny little red things along the bottom of the rock.  They are people.  Small people.....actually normal sized people - its just that the rock is really, really big!  Oh - and I was about to climb it.

I spoke to Deo first thing as I really wasn't feeling well and was panicking about the next few days and whether I would cope. Of course he was totally chilled about it.  "Of course you will do it, you've done it so far".  We actually finished the day at a lower altitude than we started so there wasn't any elevation gain on day four.  That meant my body had 24 hours to get used to the altitude. So with a "just stop moaning and get on with it" attitude off we went, to conquer the rock.

And Deo was right - I just climbed the rock.  No fuss, no issues.  Just did it.  It just goes to show what your body is actually capable of.  In 'normal' life I would have avoided it, just said I couldn't do it and left.  But what choice did I have?  So I just did it.  This trip has shown me that I am capable of so much more than I think I am.

This picture shows the view from the top, looking back at the camp.  Our tents are the green ones to the right.

Moir Huts

Once we had conquered the rock, the walk today was quite flat.  It was up and down, but nothing major.  It was very rocky and was the longest day as far as distance goes.  We ended up walking around 21km.  The path was marked out by small piles of rocks, some of which had also been placed on larger rocks to make a great photo opportunity.  Whilst really rocky and dry - the views continued to be as stunning as further down the mountain in the greenery.

The route today took us all along the north ridge of the mountain.  This is the Kenya side so we had some spectacular scenery in all directions.  Who knew that I was an excellent rock climber?  Not me!  But I was.  All my worries seemed to disappear as we headed further and further in to the day.  We were rock climbing all day and I really, really enjoyed it!  Today was my favourite day.

The route we were taking up the mountain is an alternative to the main routes taken.  It was therefore much quieter than the previous days.  We did see some porters pass us - although it was so baron that we didn't even get to stop to let them past.  There wasn't a narrow path so no need to get out of the way.  Despite there being some porters, we didn't actually see any more groups of trekkers all day.  This was definitely my favourite day.

Snack Break

Summit in the background.  We actually had a phone signal here and got to call home!

Half way through the day we stopped for lunch.  The porters who had passed us much earlier, set up a temporary camp.  The mess tent, the kitchen tent and the toilet.  It was a welcome break after around 12km of walking.  Not to mention no bushes to hide behind!!  Having got quite used to eating at camp it did feel a bit weird being in a tent in the middle of nowhere!  You looked outside and literally saw nothing for miles.

After lunch we set off again for more of the same but with one or two more extreme rock formations to get over.  The second part of the walk was much quieter.  We walked in our usual formation without talking.  It was really peaceful.  I could have just walked forever.

What I loved about Deo was that he didn't feel the need to entertain us all the time.  He was actually quite shy and didn't chat unless you kicked off a conversation with him.  Like us, he was happy just to walk in silence, to take in the views, think about life, to reflect on how far we had gone and what was ahead of us.  Deo does 18 climbs a year.  The climbs are very therapeutic so it really doesn't surprise me that he was just so chilled out.

The landscape

Eventually we made it to the Third Caves Camp.  Whilst we had ended up at a lower altitude than we started we were all worn out from the rocks and the long day (in the heat) so we didn't last very long before we went to bed.  The summit attempt was getting ever nearer.

Chicken & Chips for Dinner

Day Three - Shira 1 Camp to Moir Hut

Day three had been branded "Lisa's Day" by Jacob.  Most of the walk was flat, and having been the one struggling the most with the steep steps on the last two days he knew day three was going to be my favourite day.....but we'll see!!

After the usual morning routine we posed for the obligatory photo and we were off, again.  Day three saw a change to the terrain as we were out of the forest and in to a much more baron landscape.

We headed out of camp and it wasn't too long before we came across a couple of streams we needed to cross.  These were really challenging for my short legs - so much for it being my favourite day!  Again my little legs made it more difficult for me to tackle the crossing as what was a step to everyone else was a leap for me - across the rocks.  I was trying to take it slow but the porters were slowly catching up with us so there was soon queue building, but as they say "pole, pole".

Most of the walking today was much easier, it was flatter and quite picturesque - getting out of the forrest also meant it wasn't as hot & sticky.  We were now walking directly toward the summit so there were some quite spectacular views.

So far Jacob was right, my favourite day - I even had time for a cheeky plank!

The mood today felt different too, it felt like we have truly settled in to the flow, we knew what to expect, we knew the routine, we knew each other - it just felt easy.  That said, the altitude sickness wasn't getting any better.  Nausea, dizziness, breathlessness....it just kept coming.  Regular checks of my oxygen levels showed I was fine to continue but it was starting to feel uncomfortable and I was starting to panic about how I was going to cope as things were just going to get harder, steeper and higher!

As the day went on Deo starting to all about the "last bit of the climb" in a rather shifty way, he may as well shuffled on the spot and looked a the ground.  What he was trying to say was that the "last bit of the climb" certainly wouldn't be my favourite.....and he wasn't wrong!!  Day Three was certainly NOT Lisa's favourite day!

It was steep and rocky, and went on and on and on and on and up and up and up and up.  Little did I know but we were actually climbing over the third volcanic peak of Kilimanjaro, Shira Plateau.

The team had split up, with Susie, Bob and David walking ahead with Jacob.  I came behind, slowly, stopping for a rest every 10th step.  But somehow I made it to camp.  I really wanted to celebrate surviving another day but all I could do was collapse in the tent and sleep.

Thankfully we had another room with a view, but the view in this direction was not enough - I felt sick, dizzy, tired.  My legs were like jelly - and if I looked in the opposite direction I could see the start of what lie ahead of me on day four and it wasn't pretty!

The Porters

I really don't know where to begin - the Porters were absolutely bloomin' amazing.

When preparing for this climb I, like many others I'm sure, did everything, trained for everything, bought everything, planned for everything.  Literally everything.

I would get up each morning and put on my expensive hiking boots, branded trekking trousers, a top designed specifically for walking, trekking socks (not normal socks).  And then pick up my bag, specifically designed for mountain climbing with handy pockets just where you need them.

We would leave the camp at 7.30 each day - and before too long be complaining a bit about the heat, how tired we were, how the altitude was getting to us.  Panicking about getting blisters, about whether our shoulders would be sore from carrying the bag all day.  Wondering what height setting we needed our walking poles on for this particular part of the climb.

Our team unloading the bus at the starting point

Porters waiting to get the kit weighed

Then someone would shout one word that everyone knew, and knew what to do when they heard it - "PORTERS!".

This word was the best word you could hear as it meant porters were coming past and you needed to stop and move to the side to let them past.  They gave you an excuse to stop and catch your breath.  I loved every single porter on the mountain for forcing me to stop walking, even just for one minute.

The porters would walk past - every single one with a massive smile on their face and acknowledging you with "jambo"meaning hello.  They would walk past in flip flops with 3 tents on their head and a bag on their back.  Smiling despite us in all of our kit complaining!

There was a clear hierarchy among the porters, the team were all managed by our Chief Guide Deo, who in turn was supported by Jacob.  The other 'senior' member of the team was Barak the Chef.  Each morning either Deo or Jacob would stay behind at camp help the porters pack everything up and move on to the next camp.  They would then catch us up on the climb.

I know I've said it before but I genuinely could not have completed the climb without Deo and Jacob. Jacob for his infectious smile and Deo just for his quiet, unflappable ability to manage everything and everyone around him.

Deo (left) and Jacob (right) the summit in the background looming

Jacobs infectious smile

Deo overseeing the porters

Barak the chef

After packing the camp up, the porters overtook us on the walk only to get to the next camp and set everything up for us.  While we were still just an hour in to the days walk.  Once everything was set up some of them would even come back to meet us and carry our bags.

Joseph navigating the rocks with my bag on his front and Davids bag on his back

Joseph giving David a supportive 'man hug' on the summit climb

We met the team on the bus and couldn't help but giggle when they just kept getting on.  It was like there was a back door and they were all getting off the bus and walking around to get back on again as they just kept coming!  It was a massive comfort to know there were so many of them, all very experienced and all very relaxed - if they weren't worried I wasn't worried.  Deo alone leads 18 climbs a year, thats more than once a month he gets to the summit - I was clearly in good hands.

The whole team on the bus.

You may have read a blog post I did a few months before the climb about the Kilimanjaro Song.  The Kilimanjaro song is traditionally sung by the porters to the climbers after reaching the summit.  Well our boys didn't disappoint.  Watch this space as the videos will be available shortly!

Huge thanks to each and every one of the team for their support!  I really will never forget it.

Day Two - Forest Camp to Shira 1 Camp

Having survived my first camping experience we were woken at 6am by Laurent.  Laurent woke us up every morning with a cup of tea - what a luxury! Each morning had the same routine:

6.00 - Wake up call and tea

6.30 - Washing water delivered

7.00 - Breakfast

7.30 - Leave Camp

After breakfast we ran through the usual kit check, were given our water for the day and of course posed for the daily photo.  Each morning the porters would walk to a nearby stream with buckets to collect the water.  It was then brought back to camp (usually on the porters head) and purified before being distributed among the porters and climbers.

Day two was much like day one, thick forest.  The trees did thin out the further we walked.  This was the hardest day for me.  The Altitude sickness had kicked in and I was struggling.  The terrain again wasn't designed for little legs and I was getting breathless with each massive step.  I had now started taking altitude sickness tablets and my wonderful walking poles became a permanent attachment to my arms. 

I thought my walking poles would end up in the bush, Ive never really got on with them, they just get in the way.  But actually I could not have done this climb without them.  I may as well have slept with them attached to me.  It was quite hard to pack them away when we had returned to the hotel as they had become such a comfort blanket.

As the day went on the trees started to fade away to make way for slightly more rocky terrain.  You could definitely feel that environment was getting dryer the higher the altitude.  No wildlife, fewer flowers, smaller, dryer trees - weirdly though this was great as you knew you were making progress.  And the higher up we went the more spectacular the views!

The mood on the mountain felt different too.  Day one was very exciting.  All the climbers were buzzing with excitement and a bit of fear, but there was definitely a positive feeling.  We had bumped in to a few climbers along the way that had been on our flight so it was nice to see a few familiar faces along with way.  Day two felt a little calmer.  I think reality had set in.  The excitement had passed and had been replaced with focus......let's just get this done.

Although we were all climbing with different trekking companies it didn't seem to matter on the mountain.  Everyone helped everyone - when you passed another group they were full of encouragement, comparing experiences and giving you a little supportive push along the way.

There were plenty of breaks, we certainly weren't in a rush.  The daily schedules had been planned to perfection to allow a slow pace and plenty of breaks.  Yet we still managed to reach the camp on time.  The breaks were very welcome.  Drink some water, eat some food, toilet stop, photo opportunities - all an essential part of each day.

It was arriving at the Shira 1 Camp that we got our first glimpse of the summit.  Although I wasn't looking forward to another night in the tent, it was fair to say we had a room with a view!  It somehow made it all even more real - Lovely view but looking at it made me feel little sick!!  It was still three days away, the summit climb, and yet the top felt so close.  

Day One - Outpost Lodge to Forest Camp

The day started early (7am pick up) to start the three hour drive to the starting point, Lemosho Gate.  We had met our chief guide Deo the night before when he came to the hotel to brief us, check we had everything we needed and to basically calm us down a little.  We had also been introduced to David and Bob, the other two completing the climb with us.  They were old work colleagues who were competing the climb as a retirement gift to themselves, that's right....retirement... They were 59 and 64, so being the youngest of the group I was already feeling the pressure. 

We were met at reception in the morning by Deo and the bus filled with all the crew - all 20 of them!  There started the great adventure.  I'm not going to lie, I was petrified!  It was all just a fear of the unknown though.  No amount of googling could really prepare me, I just had to go with it, let go and trust everything would be OK.  Besides which - there was no going back, a stash of donation money, friends, family, colleagues and of course a whole load of elephants were relying on me!

On the way to the hill we stopped off a service station to pick up food supplies for the week.  This was an experience in itself, starting to realise we wouldn't be seeing a proper toilet for a while, we decided to try out the service station facilities.  They were fine - clean, toilet paper, and a seat.  What was quite amusing is when you came out and washed your hands.  There was a lady standing at each sink with a bottle of morning Spring washing up liquid.  She smiled, I held out my hands, she squirted some washing liquid in my hands, I washed my hands and left.  Not quite the luxurious experience I was hoping for but an experience none the less. 

After another hour or so driving on the bumpiest roads ever (I will never complain about pot holes again) we arrived at Longdorissi Gate. This was the check point before we started the climb.  Everyone and everything came off the bus as each and every bag had to be weighed.  There are strict weight limits in place for each porter, ensuring their wellbeing on the mountain.  Our 'big bags' were being carried by the porters, along with the tents, food supplies (to feed 20 for seven days), cooking equipment, crockery, sleeping bags, mattresses, table and chairs and the all important portable loo - not to mention their own kit!  It was great to see just how important the porters safety was taken, anything over the weight limits was simply left behind.  It was also here that all passports were logged, climbing permits checked and the official log books completed.

It was at Longdorissi Gate that it happened.  The biggest storm I have seen since living in Africa many, many years ago.  The biggest, that is, until day six, but that's for another blog post.  This delayed us a while as none of the kits could be weighed until the rain, hail, thunder & lightening had passed, so we settled down under the small bit of shelter available for lunch.  All four of us were very prepared and rushed to put on our waterproof coats, waterproof trousers, waterproof bag covers, hats, etc etc feeling smug that we were so prepared and actually got to use what we were carrying ourselves in our 'small bags'.

There was a great buzz around the place as all the groups of climbers who were climbing with various companies were together, sharing stories of training, charities, packing and kit.  Once the rain had stopped and our luggage had passed the weight in, we were back on the bus for the last 20 minute drive to Lemosho Gate - the starting point.  As we approached the bus we took off all of the waterproof gear we so diligently put on (in the dry), it hadn't even got wet, but we all felt pleased that we got the opportunity to wear it - just to justify having to carry it at the bottom of our bags for the next seven days!!!

Once at Lemosho Gate the porters unloaded the kit from the top of the bus again and started distributing it evenly between them, we posed for the last photo of us looking clean and we were off - a long morning build up and in the end it all happened so quickly.  We were asked to follow the guides and before I knew it I was on the mountain, we didn't even have time to pause and let the enormity of the task ahead of us sink in.  No high fives, no team talk, we just started walking.  

The first two days of the climb were in the rainforest.  It was therefore hot, sticky and full of mysterious buzzing noises.  The path was very clearly marked out but was very steep!!  I know thats a silly thing to say as we were climbing a mountain but the steps were very deep for someone with legs as short as mine!  It felt like each step took twice as much effort for me!  It didn't take long for me to feel the difference in the air - I could feel a tightness in my chest and felt that I was panting.  It didn't take long for Deo to notice either, and from then on I was 'on the watch list'.

Lemosho Gate is 2424m above sea level, we climbed 400m and ended the day at 2821m so it wasn't really a surprise we could feel the difference in the air.  Todays walk was quite short at just 5.4km though so the time soon passed.  There were also plenty of distractions of a furry kind en route.  Monkeys Galore!! Just there, in the trees in front of us. 

Getting to the Forest Camp was a welcome relief as it had actually been a very long day with all the formalities to get through.  And how lovely to arrive at Camp and see your tent all up and mattress out ready for you to collapse (which we did!).  On arrival at Camp we had to sign in and were then welcomed with a bowl of hot water and soap.  We were all feeling sticky from the heat so a wash was just what we needed.

And that was it - day one done, six to go.  Apart from one night in the back garden, I have never slept in a tent before so I was about to embark on yet another adventure - hardcore camping.  I actually hated camping.  I hated that I couldn't stand up in the tent.  I couldn't wash, change or anything without getting a bad back from bending.  Its fair to say camping wasn't one of my highlights!!

Majete Wildlife Reserve - Malawi

Majete Wildlife Reserve totals 700 KM2 and has been an African Parks project since 2003.  Majete was depleted of wildlife when African Parks assumed its management.  Scouts had been under-resourced and inadequately trained, and elephants, lions and other major species had been poached to local extinction.  It was a 'paper-park' in every sense - one that existed only in name and on a map, resulting in an empty forest.  Over a ten year period, African Parks restocked the reserve with more than than 8,800 animals, including the species that make up the Big Five; enacted rigorous law enforcement, and worked closely with the local communities.

Majete is regarded as one of Malawi's and the regions leading wildlife sanctuaries, and serves as a shining example of how area can be restored to flourish once again.

The stats....

• xZero rhino poached since 2003;
• 81 schools participating in environmental education;
• Majete provides 80 school bursaries each year, and maintains an orphanage.

The Highlights

• Majete was restocked with over 2,500 animals, including black rhino, elephants, lions, sable antelope and buffalo.  today more than 8,000 animals exist;
• Zero rhino and elephant have been poached since 2003 and 2006 respectively;
• Majete has transformed the local economy and directed funds in to critical social infrastructure, including schools, clinics and safe roads; employment has increased ten-fold since 2003;
• Thawale Tented Lodge, Mkulumadzi Lodge run by Robin Pope Safaris, and the community-run campsites offer tourists the opportunity to visit and experience the park. 

What next for Majete?

• Continue to strengthen law enforcement operations, advance the intelligence capability and work with communities to improve their quality of life;
• Strengthen community engagement by scaling up income generating activities and implement malaria controls through the operational research project, supported by the University of Malawi, Wageningen and Amsterdam, as well s africana Parks;
• Expand the reserve's tourist development plan to encourage further growth through the development of new lodges;
• Translocate 200 elephants from Majete to Nkhotoakota in 2017 to reduce habitat degradation.

All of this information has been taken from the African Parks website.  If you want to find out even more about Majete Wildlife Reserve then why not grab a cuppa and click on the link below - happy browsing!

Majete Wildlife Reserve

PS - here is a link to my just giving page - click here to sponsor me 😘

I did it!

I did it
I came
I climbed
I conquered
I cried
I laughed
I doubted
I considered giving up
I dug deep
I gave myself a talking to
I continued
I saw Monkeys in the wild
I touched a cloud
I got serenaded
I have met some super supportive people along the way that I will love forever
I have no blisters
I sat alone on a rock, in pain, questioning why, when a stranger walked past.  He leaned in and gently squeezed my arm.  We did not speak, we did not make eye contact.  I am so grateful for that man.
I have reached the peak of the highest free standing mountain in the world
I can do anything
I am the proof of that
I now believe it
I slept under the stars
I watched the sun rise over the African wilderness
I put one foot in front of the other and I kept going
I 'planked for parks' on the summit
I did it
I will continue to fight to protect the earths wildlife
I have a purpose
I can make a difference
I can do anything
I climbed Mt Kilimanjaro.